Monday, December 17, 2012

Holiday Dog-Friendly Treat Recipe

Here is a Holiday Dog-Friendly Treat Recipe that your canine companion is sure to enjoy! 
6 slices cooked bacon, crumbled 
4 eggs, well beaten 
1/8 cup bacon fat 
1 cup water 
1/2 cup non-fat dry milk powder 
2 cup graham flour
2 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup cornmeal

Mix ingredients with a strong spoon; drop heaping tablespoonfuls onto a greased baking sheet. Bake in a 350 oven for 15 minutes. Turn off oven and leave cookies on baking sheet in the oven overnight to dry out. Yield: about 4 dozen dog cookies.












Monday, December 10, 2012

Holiday Cat-Friendly Treat Recipe



Ingredients: 
½ cup of hamburger
½ teaspoon shrimp paste (see Asian food section of your local grocery store)
¼ cup shelled shrimp, washed in hot water, and minced
½ teaspoon catnip

Directions:
Mix shrimp paste with the catnip and then hand work it into the hamburger.
Add minced shrimp to the hamburger mix and make into little meatballs.
These can be fed raw, or baked at 425° F for 10 minutes.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Happy Work Anniversary, Stacy!

We would like to wish a Happy Work Anniversary to Stacy, our Practice Manager. We appreciate all the hard work you do, and we are so glad to have you as a part of our team!

Monday, October 22, 2012

Candy & Chocolate

During Halloween, our pets are often exposed to more dangers than at any other time of the year. Kids often spread their Halloween treats on the floor, and candy is often kept in bowls on low tables or on the floor for trick-or-treaters. For your pet’s safety, please be sure to keep them away from easily-accessible treats that could be toxic to them!

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Fall Football Gatherings & Pets

Do you like to go to football games or tailgate parties in the fall? If you’re planning on bringing your pet, it’s important to make sure that they’re safe. Picnic foods –such as greasy burgers, sugary desserts, ribs, chicken with bones, and shish-kabob sticks—can be extremely dangerous for your pet if they’re consumed! Also charcoal grills can be easily knocked over by excited or skittish pets, causing injuries. Remember to keep your pet safe and secure while you’re engaging in activities that could be dangerous for them.



Wednesday, September 12, 2012

How to Make a Cat Toy Puzzle

Looking for something to keep your cat entertained? View this video about creating your own puzzle game for your cat to stimulate their mind.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Pets & Hot Pavement

Have you ever thought about the way you hated walking on hot asphalt when you were a kid? As adults, we don’t spend as much time outside barefoot, so it’s easy to forget. We want to remind you that your pet goes outside barefoot every day and can experience this pain. It’s important to limit their time on black asphalt during walks, and when possible, take walks before it’s reached the hot part of the day.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Pets & Camping Safety

Camping with your pet can be a fun adventure, but also a dangerous one! It’s important to be fully prepared for bringing a pet with you into the woods BEFORE you go. Make sure your pet is up-to-date on all parasite prevention, and be sure to pack plenty of food and water. If you’re filtering your water, don’t forget your pet needs filtered water too! And most importantly, check campground rules where you’ll be staying, because some campgrounds don’t allow pets because of the danger of large wild animals, like bears! Make sure you keep your pets and family safe, and have a great trip!

Monday, July 23, 2012

Heat Stroke

Heatstroke is caused by overheating and dehydration, but did you know that it could be fatal? Pets that are left outside in the sun or not given plenty of fresh water to drink are at risk. Signs of heatstroke include shaking, excessive panting, and disorientation. If you think your pet is having heatstroke, it’s important to apply cool towels to your pet’s body to lower their temperature and bring them into our office as quickly as possible.

Friday, July 20, 2012

Pet Friendly Treat Recipe

1
Combine 1/2 cup plain yogurt with 1/4 cup shredded carrots or chopped apples. Chop 4 ounces cooked liver, and add it to the yogurt mixture. Spoon the yogurt treats into an ice cube tray, and freeze.

2
Mix a can of chicken or tuna with 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic and two containers of plain yogurt. Add some cooked vegetables, if desired. Stir the mixture together, and put it in some small paper cups.

3
Make some quick-and-easy frozen dog yummies. Mix a cube of beef or chicken bouillon with 1 cup of warm water. Add several pieces of finely chopped leftover beef or chicken, and freeze the yummies until they're solid.

4
Create a frosty doggy treat with a jar of chicken or beef baby food. Add the baby food with 2 tablespoons of peanut butter and 2 tablespoons of honey. Mix well, and spoon the mixture into small paper cups or ice cube trays. Double the recipe for large dogs.

5
Chop a cup of peanuts, and stir them into a mashed banana for a fruit and protein treat. Add 1/4 cup wheat germ and 1/2 cup smooth peanut butter. Mix well and freeze.

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

DISASTER PLANNING TIPS

Whether it’s a large-scale natural catastrophe or an unforeseen emergency that causes you to leave your home temporarily, everyone’s family can benefit from having a household evacuation plan in place before disaster strikes.  Every disaster plan must include your pets!

1.        If you evacuate your home, DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND!  Pets most likely cannot survive in a disaster by themselves.  If they do survive, you may not be able to find them when you return.
2.        For public health reasons, many emergency shelters cannot accept pets.  Find out, well in advance of needing them, which motels and hotels in your area allow pets.  Alternatively, arrange in advance for family or friends to house your pets in case of emergency.  Include Great Bridge Veterinary Hospital’s phone number (547-1600) and the Animal Control office number (382-8080) on your list of emergency numbers to call for information regarding pets during a disaster.
3.        Ask your veterinarian or a veterinary care team member about microchipping your pet. In the event of separation during a disaster, the microchip placement and pet registration may help you and your pet be reunited easier. Make the microchip part of your family's preparation before disaster strikes.  Don't forget to update your registration when your information changes.
4.        Prepare a Disaster Kit for your pet.  Keep an Evacuation-Pack and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where it is located.  This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry. (Visit the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals website (www.aspca.org).  Look under “Disaster Preparedness” to order a Free Pet Safety Packet and a Free Pet Rescue Sticker.  To purchase a pet first aid kit and guide book, you can visit the ASPCA store to buy one on-line. Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:
a.        Medications and medical records in a water-proof container
b.        Information on feeding schedules and medical conditions
c.        First Aid Kit
    i.        Three to seven days' worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food.  Be sure to rotate the food every two months.
    ii.      Disposable litter trays (Aluminum roasting pans are perfect.)
    iii.      Paper towels
    iv.      Liquid dish soap and disinfectant
    v.       Disposable garbage bags for clean-up
    vi.      Pet feeding dishes
    vii.    Extra harness and leash (Note: harnesses are recommended for safety and security.)
    viii.    Photocopies of feeding schedules, notes on medical conditions, and medical records (with the name of your veterinarian/veterinary hospital) in a waterproof container. Include a two-week supply of any medicine your pet requires. (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)
    ix.       At least 7 days' worth of bottled water for each person and pet.  Store the water in a cool, dry place, and replace it every two months.
    x.         A traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each  
    xi.        Flashlights
    xii.      Blankets (for scooping up a fearful pet)
    xiii.     Especially for cats: Pillowcase or Sack, toys, scoopable litter
    xiv.     Especially for dogs: Long leash and yard stake, toys and chew toys, a week's worth of cage liner (or newspaper).
   xv.      Name and number of your pet’s veterinarian:  Great Bridge Veterinary Hospital, 1010 Cedar Road, Chesapeake, VA
              23322, 757-547-1600, greatbridgevet@msn.com
5.      You should also have an emergency kit for the human members of the family. Some items to include: Batteries, duct tape, flashlight, radio, multi-tool, tarp, rope, permanent marker, spray paint, baby wipes, protective clothing and footwear, extra cash, rescue whistle, important phone numbers, extra medication and copies of medical and insurance information.
6.        Place up-to-date Pet ID tags on your pets and have recent photos of your pets handy in case your are separated and need to make a “Lost” poster.
7.        If you have no alternative but to leave your pets at home, there are precautions you MUST take. Remember that leaving your pets at home alone can place them in great danger!  Confine your pet to a safe area inside - NEVER leave your pet chained outside!  Place notices outside in a visible area stating that pets are inside.  List the pets that are inside the house and where the pets are located.  Provide a phone number where you or an alternate contact can be reached, as well as the name and number of your veterinarian.
8.       For more information:
          Visit Humane Society of the United States at www.hsus.org and click on “Emergency Services.”
         Visit American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals at http://www.aspca.organd click on “Disaster Preparedness.”

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Canine Heartworm Disease


Dogs are considered the definitive host for heartworms (Dirofilaria immitis). However, heartworms may infect more than 30 species of animals (e.g., coyotes, foxes, wolves and other wild canids, domestic cats and wild felids, ferrets, sea lions, etc.) and humans as well. When a mosquito carrying infective heartworm larvae bites a dog and transmits the infection, the larvae grow, develop and migrate in the body over a period of several months to become sexually mature male and female worms. These reside in the heart, lungs and associated blood vessels. As mature adults, the worms mate and the females release their offspring (microfilariae), pronounced: (micro-fil-ar-ee-a), into the blood stream.
Offspring can be detected in the blood (pre-patent period) about six to seven months after the infective larvae from the mosquito enter the dog. The male heartworms (four to six inches in length) and the females (10-12 inches) become fully grown about one year after infection, and their life span in dogs appears to average up to five to seven years.

In experimentally induced infections of heartworms in dogs, the percentage of infective larvae developing to adults is high (40% to 90%). However, the percentage of experimentally infected dogs from which adult worms are recovered is virtually 100%. The number of worms infecting a dog can be very high, with the number of worms in dogs ranging from one to approximately 250.
Microfilaremia, the presence of heartworm offspring in the blood of infected dogs, is relatively common. However, not all heartworm infections result in such offspring circulating in the blood. These are known as occult heartworm infections and may be the result of a number of factors such as single sex heartworm infections, host immune responses affecting the presence of circulating offspring (microfilariae) and most significantly, the administration of heartworm preventives.
The onset and severity of disease in the dog is mainly a reflection of the number of adult heartworms present, the age of the infection and the level of activity of the dog. Dogs with higher numbers of worms are generally found to have more severe heart and lung disease changes. Until the number of mature heartworms exceeds 50 in a 25-kg dog (approximately 55 pounds), nearly all of the heartworms reside in the lower caudal pulmonary arteries (the arteries of the lower lung lobes). Higher numbers of heartworms result in their presence in the right chambers of the heart. In such infections, the most common early pathological changes caused by heartworms are due to inflammatory processes that occur in and around the arteries of the lower portion of the lungs in response to the presence of heartworms. Later, the heart may enlarge and become weakened due to an increased workload and congestive heart failure may occur. A very active dog (e.g., working dog) is more likely to develop severe disease with a relatively small number of heartworms than an inactive one (e.g., a lap dog or couch potato). Occasionally, a dog with a large number of heartworms may not only have worms in the heart, but also in the caudal vena cava (large primary vein of the lower body) between the liver and the heart. If the heartworms are not removed surgically, this syndrome causes sudden collapse and death within two to three days.

Canine heartworm infection is widely distributed throughout the United States. Heartworm infection has been found in dogs native to all 50 states. All dogs, regardless of their age, sex, or habitat, are susceptible to heartworm infection. The highest infection rates (up to 45%) in dogs (not maintained on heartworm preventive) are observed within 150 miles of the Atlantic and Gulf coasts from the Gulf of Mexico to New Jersey and along the Mississippi River and its major tributaries. Other areas of the United States may have lower incidence rates (5% or less) of canine heartworm disease, while some regions have environmental, mosquito population and dog population factors that allow a higher local incidence of heartworm infection. Regions where heartworm disease is common have diagnosed infections in dogs as young as one year of age, with most areas diagnosing infections primarily between the ages of three and eight years. Although there are differences in frequency of infection for various groups of dogs, all dogs in all regions should be considered at risk, placed on prevention programs and frequently examined by a veterinarian.

Clinical Signs

Heartworm disease may cause a combination of medical problems in the same dog including dysfunction of the lungs, heart, liver and kidneys. The disease may have an acute onset but usually begins with barely detectable signs resulting from a chronic infection and a combination of physiologic changes. Dogs with a low number of adult worms in the body that are not exercised strenuously may never have apparent signs of heartworm disease. However, in most dogs, the heart and lungs are the major organs affected by heartworms with varying degrees of clinical signs.

Clinical Signs Associated with Canine Heartworm Disease
Early Infection No abnormal clinical signs observed
Mild Disease Cough
Moderate Disease Cough, exercise intolerance, abnormal lung sounds
Severe Disease Cough, exercise intolerance, dyspnea (difficulty breathing), abnormal lung sounds, hepatomegaly (enlargement of the liver), syncope (temporary loss of consciousness due to poor blood flow to the brain), ascites (fluid accumulation in the abdominal cavity), abnormal heart sounds, death

Diagnosis

The diagnosis of canine heartworm disease depends upon the following:

Serology

Diagnostic tests for the study of antibodies and antigens in blood serum.

Antigen Tests

Antigen tests detect specific antigens primarily found in adult female heartworms and are used with much success to detect canine heartworm infection. Currently, tests are available as in-clinic tests as well as at many veterinary reference laboratories. Most commercial tests will accurately detect infections with one or more mature female heartworms that are at least seven or eight months old, but the tests generally do not detect infections of less than five months duration.

Antibody Tests

Since the late 1970's and early 1980's, several canine heartworm antibody tests have been developed and introduced, but such tests for dogs have been largely replaced by the more useful antigen tests. This lack of utility of the antibody tests is due to the fact that these tests detect the antibody response to exposure to infection, but not necessarily actual disease. This is important because not all infections fully mature.

Microfilarial Detection and Differentiation

The identification of the offspring (microfilaria) of heartworms (Dirofilaria immitis) from a blood sample indicates infection with adult heartworms. Identifying offspring can also be accomplished through either one of two concentration tests: the modified Knott's test (a technique requiring spinning the blood sample in a mechanical device called a centrifuge) or a filter test. Practitioners will often do a quick examination of a blood smear to look for the presence of the offspring (microfilaria), but this procedure is not sensitive enough to rule out heartworms and only verifies the presence of an infection.

Another parasitic infection of dogs that is capable of producing circulating microfilariae, detectable upon examination of the blood, is called Acanthocheilonema (Dipetalonema) reconditum. A reconditum is a non-disease-causing parasite that matures in the tissues beneath the skin of dogs. Its offspring can be differentiated from those produced by heartworms through microscopic examination evaluating size, shape and their movement.

Physical Examination

A heartworm infected dog with mild disease may appear to be perfectly normal upon physical examination. Severely affected dogs, however, may show signs of right-sided heart failure. Labored breathing or crackles may be heard in the lungs due to vascular clots and elevated pressure. A history of coughing and inability to exercise are among the earliest detectable abnormalities. Tachycardia (rapid heartbeat), ascites (fluid in the abdomen) and hepatomegaly (enlarged liver) indicate right-sided congestive heart failure. Hemoptysis (blood in the sputum) occasionally occurs and indicates severe clots and complications within the lungs. Anorexia (loss of appetite), cachexia (severe weight loss), syncope (fainting) jaundice or yellow bile pigmentation present in the skin and mucus membranes may appear in severely affected dogs. Occasionally, heartworms are reported in abnormal locations such as the eyes, abdominal cavity, cerebral artery and spinal cord. Clinical signs and disease experienced in such infections depend largely on the location of the worms. The primary response to the presence of heartworms in dogs, however, occurs in the heart and lungs.

Radiology (X-ray)

Radiographic abnormalities develop early in the course of the disease. X-rays of the heart and lungs are the best tools available to evaluate the severity of the disease and to develop a prognosis. Typical changes observed are enlargement of the following structures: pulmonary arteries in the lobes (particularly the lower lobes) of the lung, main pulmonary artery, and right side of the heart. Blunting and thickening, usually along with tortuosity (abnormal twists or turns), of pulmonary arteries, is often noted. Inflammation is often found in the lung tissue, particularly the tissue that surrounds the pulmonary arteries.

Angiography and Ultrasonography

These forms of imaging are rarely used in the diagnosis of canine heartworm infection outside of referral practices and teaching institutions. Angiography is a technique that permits visualization of blood vessels in the body by taking radiographs within seconds after injecting a contrast material (dye) into those blood vessels. In canine heartworm infection, angiography is used to study changes to the pulmonary arteries. Worms may be visualized on the angiogram as filing defects. Ultrasonography (echocardiography) has been used to evaluate enlargement of the heart chamber and to look for the presence of heartworms in the right ventricle or main pulmonary artery.

Necropsy (examination after death)

Although necropsy is probably the most definitive diagnostic test, it is hoped that it never reaches that stage. Heartworms are usually found in the right ventricle of the heart or in the major pulmonary arteries, at times in its farthest branches. Occasionally heartworms may be found in organs other than the heart and lungs but such infections are rare.

Treatments

Most dogs infected with heartworm can be successfully treated. The goal of treatment is to kill all adult worms with an adulticide and all microfilariae with a microfilaricide. It is important to try to accomplish this goal with a minimum of harmful effects from drugs and a tolerable degree of complications created by the dying heartworms. Heartworm infected dogs showing no signs or mild signs have a high success rate with treatment. Patients with evidence of more severe heartworm disease can be successfully treated, but the possibility of complications and mortality is greater. The presence of severe heartworm disease within a patient in addition to the presence of other life-threatening diseases may prevent treatment for heartworm infection.

Adult Heartworm Therapy (Adulticide Therapy)

There is currently one drug approved by the FDA for use in dogs for the elimination of adult heartworms. This drug is an organic arsenical compound. Dogs receiving this drug therapy will typically have had a thorough pretreatment evaluation of its condition and will then be hospitalized during the administration of the drug.
Melarsomine dihydrochloride (Immiticide®, Merial) has demonstrated a higher level of effectiveness and safety than any other adult heartworm treatment previously available. It is administered by deep intramuscular injection into the lumbar muscles. For complete information on the classification and treatment for heartworm infected dogs using this product, consult your veterinarian.

Post-Adulticide Complications

The primary post-adulticide complication is the development of severe pulmonary thromboembolism. Pulmonary thromboembolism results from the obstruction of blood flow through pulmonary arteries due to the presence of dead heartworms and lesions in the arteries and capillaries of the lungs. If heartworm adulticide treatment is effective, some degree of pulmonary thromboembolism will occur.

When dead worms are numerous and arterial injury is severe, widespread obstruction of arteries can occur. Clinical signs most commonly observed include fever, cough, hemoptysis (blood in the sputum) and potentially sudden death. It is extremely important to not allow exercise in any dog being treated for heartworms. Often dogs with severe infections will also require the administration of anti-inflammatory doses of corticosteroids.

Elimination of Microfilariae

The most effective drugs for this purpose are the macrocyclic lactone (ML) anthelmintics, i.e.,milbemycin oxime, selamectin, moxidectin and ivermectin. These drugs are the active ingredients in commonly used heartworm preventives. Although their usage as microfilaricides has not been approved by the FDA, they are widely used by veterinarians as there are no approved microfilaricidal drugs currently available. It is recommended that microfilariae positive dogs being treated with these macrocyclic lactones be hospitalized for at least eight hours following treatment for observation of possible adverse reactions, including those resulting from rapid death of the microfilariae.

Circulating microfilariae usually can be eliminated within a few weeks by the administration of the ML-type drugs mentioned above. Today however, the most widely used microfilaricidal treatment is to simply administer ML preventives as usual, and the microfilariae will be cleared slowly over a period of about six to nine months.

Confirmation of Adulticide Efficacy

The goal of adulticide treatment is the elimination of all adult heartworms. However, clinical improvement in dogs treated for heartworm infection is possible without completely eliminating the adult heartworms. Heartworm antigen testing is the most reliable method of confirming the efficacy of adulticide therapy. If all the adult worms have been destroyed or very few survive, heartworm antigen should be undetectable after six months post-adulticide. Dogs that remain antigen positive at that time could be considered a potential candidate for repeat treatment with an adulticide only after a full review of each case. In some cases, an alternative is to not retreat with the arsenical but to continue with a preventive such as ivermectin which will gradually eliminate the remaining worms.

Preventives

While treatment of canine heartworm disease is usually successful, prevention of the disease is much safer and more economical. There are a variety of options for preventing heartworm infection, including daily and monthly tablets and chewables, monthly topicals and a six-month injectable product. These products are extremely effective and when administered properly on a timely schedule, heartworm infection can be prevented.

The American Heartworm Society is now recommending year-round prevention, even in seasonal areas. One reason for this is compliance – to make sure the medicine has been given properly by the pet owner. In addition, most monthly heartworm preventives have activity against intestinal parasites. Many of these same intestinal parasites that infect dogs can also infect people, with estimated infections occurring in three to six million people every year. So this added benefit of monthly deworming makes great sense.
Before starting a preventive program, all dogs that could possibly be infected with mature heartworms should be tested.

Macrocyclic Lactone (ML)

Macrocyclic lactones are highly effective parasiticides used in preventing heartworm infections. Their primary benefits lie in their safety and ease of administration of once- monthly doses. Each of the macrocyclic lactones can have additional intestinal parasite or external parasite activity, which could be the determining factor that a veterinarian uses to recommend a particular product for a certain region or an individual situation.

Ivermectin

Ivermectin (Heartgard® & Heartgard® Plus by Merial, Iverhart® Plus & Iverhart MAX™ by Virbac and Tri-Heart® Plus by Schering-Plough) was the first in this family of drugs to be approved for preventing heartworm infection. An infection with larvae as long as two months prior to the initiation of ivermectin treatment will be blocked from development.

Milbemycin

Milbemycin oxime (Interceptor® & Sentinel® by Novartis) has benefits, which are similar to ivermectin.

Selamectin

Selamectin (Revolution® by Pfizer) is applied topically to prevent heartworm disease.

Moxidectin

Moxidectin (Advantage Multi™ by Bayer) is available in a topical formulation, in combination with a flea control product, imidacloprid. Moxidectin is also available as a six-month injectable product for dogs (ProHeart®6 (moxidectin) Sustained Release Injectable for Dogs, by Fort Dodge Animal Health).

Article From the American Heartworm Society

Friday, April 27, 2012

Getting Started Off Right

PUPPY – GETTING STARTED OFF RIGHT


When you bring a new puppy into your home there will be a period of adjustment. Your goals are to help your puppy to quickly bond to its new family, and to minimize the stress associated with leaving its mother, littermates, and former home. If there are already dogs in the new home the transition may be a little easier as the puppy is able to identify with its own kind. Obtaining two puppies would be another option. However, most puppies, especially those obtained before 12 weeks of age, will form attachments almost immediately to the people and any other pets in the new home, provided that there are no unpleasant consequences associated with each new person and experience.

Dogs are a highly social “grouping-living” species that in the wild is often referred to as a pack. Packs have a leader that the other members follow and look to for “direction.”  In fact, each individual in the pack generally develops a relationship with each other pack member. When puppies enter our homes the family becomes the new social group. It is essential that all owners take a leadership role over the puppy and gain a position of leadership in the family pack. Allowing behaviors that are pushy, disobedient or inappropriate may lead to problems that become increasingly difficult to correct. Control must be achieved by the proper use and timing of rewards and by directing the puppy to display appropriate responses rather than through physical techniques that can lead to fear and anxiety.

When is the best time to begin training my puppy?Formal dog training has traditionally been delayed until 6 months of age. Actually, this juvenile stage is a poor time to begin training. The dog is beginning to solidify adult behavioral patterns, challenge behavior is emerging, and behaviors that they have learned in puppyhood may need to be changed. Therefore, it is best to begin teaching puppies from the time they are obtained. One important task to begin early is to establish you as the leader. This can be done by rewarding desirable responses, training the dog to obey commands, avoiding the reinforcement of behaviors that are initiated by your dog and training the dog to accept some simple body handling techniques.

Are physical exercises necessary for gaining control?
Although there are many physical techniques that have been advocated for gaining control, it is the owners’ attitudes, actions, and responses to the new puppy (along with the puppy’s genetics) that are most important in the puppy becoming either well-mannered and responsive, or assertive, stubborn, disobedient and “domineering”.

Dog training literature has often discussed using scruff shakes and rollover techniques to discipline puppies. However, these physical techniques do not mimic how dogs would communicate with each other and such handling by a human could lead to fear, anxiety and even retaliation. Training is intended to teach the dog what you want, rather than discipline what you don't want. This makes a positive learning environment for the puppy to grow up in. There may be a number of advantages to teaching your puppy to assume subordinate postures  (on their side, on their back, hands on neck, hand stroking the top of the head, hand grasping muzzle) but this does not mean that they teach your dog to be subordinate in its relationship to you.  Having an obedient, well behaved, dog that enjoys handling and accepts restraint should be a focus of puppy training, but needs to be accomplished through reward based training, avoiding punishment and confrontational based training techniques and gradually accustoming your dog to enjoy handling. (See new puppy handling).

How can I gain control without physical exercises? The best way for each family member to take control is to teach your puppy that each reward must be earned. This is also the best way to insure that undesirable puppy behaviors are not inadvertently reinforced. The puppy should learn to display subordinate, deferential postures through reward training, rather than through any type of force. Begin with some basic obedience training, teaching the puppy to ‘sit’, ‘stay’ and ‘lie down’ for rewards. Practice short sessions, multiple times each day. Whenever the puppy is to receive anything of value (affection, attention, food, play and walks) the puppy should first be taught to earn its reward by performing a simple obedience task such as ‘sit’ or ‘stay’. Teach the puppy that rewards of any sort will never be given on demand. Also known as ‘nothing in life is free’, a term coined by veterinary behaviorist, Victoria Voith, or “learn to earn” as described by William Campbell, the puppy must be taught that vocalization, nipping, mouthing, overly rambunctious, or demanding behaviors of any sort will never earn rewards. In fact, these behaviors should be met by inattention, by confining the puppy for a few minutes until it settles down, or with training devices and commands that get the puppy to exhibit the desired response. Another option is to immediately control and calm the puppy with a head collar. Rewards should be given as soon as the puppy is performing an appropriate response.

Set limits on the puppy so that it does not learn that it can control you. Having the puppy sleep in its own bed or own cage rather than on your bed or couch, helps to prevent the dog from gaining control or becoming possessive of your resources. When the puppy is taken for walks it should be taught to follow. This should begin at the front door where the puppy should be taught to sit, wait, and follow, and never allowed to lead or pull you through the doorway.

How do I prevent my puppy from doing damage or getting into mischief?The rule of thumb for dog training is “set the dog up for success”. Supervise the puppy at all times until it has learned what it is allowed to chew, and where it is supposed to eliminate. Keeping the puppy on a 10-foot remote leash is an excellent way to keep it in sight, and to train it not to wander off. This is particularly helpful with a highly investigative puppy or for a very busy household.

At any time that the puppy cannot be supervised, such as throughout the night or when you need to go out, house it in a secure area. An escape-proof crate, a dog run, or collapsible pen are simple, highly effective, and most important, safe. The puppy could also be confined to a room that has been carefully dog-proofed. When selecting your dog’s confinement area it is useful to consider a number of factors.

The dog will adapt fastest to the new area if it is associated with rewards. Have the puppy enter the area for all its treats, toys, and perhaps food and water. The area should have some warm, dry, comfortable bedding, and should never be used for punishment (although it can, and should, be used to prevent problems). Housing the puppy in isolated areas where there is minimal human contact, such as in a laundry room or basement, should be avoided. In fact, often the best area is a kitchen (so that this can also be the dog’s feeding area) or a bedroom (so that it becomes the dog’s sleeping area). Each time the puppy needs to be confined, it should first be well exercised and given an opportunity to eliminate. Another consideration in selecting the type of confinement area is how long you may need to leave the dog alone. You must provide an area for elimination anytime the puppy will be left alone for longer than it can control its elimination. A room or collapsible pen with a paper-covered area would be needed. A cage or crate could be used for owners that do not have to leave their puppies confined for longer than 2 or 3 hours (See crate training handout for instructions on crate training your puppy).

What is the best way to punish my puppy for misbehavior?Every effort should be made to avoid punishment for new puppies as it is generally unnecessary and can lead to avoidance of family members, at a time when bonding and attachment is critical. By preventing problems through confinement or supervision, providing for all of the puppy’s needs, and setting up the environment for success, little or no punishment should ever be required. If a reprimand is needed, a verbal “no” or a loud noise is usually sufficient to distract a puppy so that you can then redirect the puppy to the correct behavior. Puppies that are supervised with a remote leash can be immediately interrupted with a pull on the leash. (See our handout on ‘Punishment’ for further details).

What should I do if my puppy misbehaves?Undesirable misbehavior must be prevented, or corrected in the act. Allowing the puppy, even once to perform an undesirable behavior such as entering a restricted room, jumping up, mounting or jumping onto the couch will serve to reward and encourage the repetition of the behavior.
There will be times when your new puppy misbehaves. How you respond to the puppy will often influence later interactions. Young puppies are very impressionable. Harsh physical reprimands are contraindicated. They only serve to frighten the puppy and perhaps make them hand shy. Unfortunately, animals can learn in one trial if something is averse enough. We want young puppies to look toward a human hand as something pleasant that brings comfort, food and affection. Most puppies can be easily interrupted with vocal intonation and loud noises. What is equally important is to redirect the puppy to the correct behavior after you interrupt what you do not like. Remember that punishment must take place while the behavior is occurring, not after.

If you catch your puppy misbehaving, try a loud noise such as clapping your hands or a loud “uh-uh”. Remember, reprimands need to occur while the behavior is happening, preferably just as it begins, and never after. Often puppies will be startled when they hear these noises and temporarily stop the behavior. At that time you should redirect the puppy to a more appropriate task and reinforce with an immediate and positive ‘good dog’.

Another way to interrupt your puppy is with various types of noise devices. One such device is a “shake can”. This is an empty soda can that has a few pennies inside and then is taped shut. When given a vigorous shake it makes a loud noise, which will interrupt the puppy’s behavior. Ultrasonic and sonic dog-training devices are also available (See our handout on ‘Behavior management products’).
The most important thing that you can do to avoid undesirable behavior is to supervise your puppy. Unsupervised puppies will chew and destroy objects as part of their natural curiosity and play. Rather than finding yourself with the need to reprimand your puppy, keep your puppy on a leash to avoid bad behaviors. Always provide suitable play objects designed to entertain your puppy so that it will not want to destroy your possessions.

Most importantly, if you find something that your puppy has destroyed but you did not catch him in the act, just clean it up and vow to supervise your puppy better in the future. Do not go get your puppy and bring him over to the mess and yell and physically discipline him. Remember that you need to punish the behavior you wish to change at the time it occurs. If you did not see your puppy chew up the object, all you are doing is disciplining your puppy for being present at a mess on the floor. Since that makes no sense to your puppy, your reprimands could create fear and anxiety, which could lead to aggression and owner avoidance.

How can I prevent problems?Supervise the puppy at all times that it is not confined to ensure that the puppy does not get itself into mischief, or cause damage to itself or the home. Leaving a remote leash attached is all that is usually needed to prevent or interrupt inappropriate behavior such as garbage raiding, chewing on household items, house-soiling, or wandering off into rooms or areas that are out of bounds. If the leash is attached to a head halter you can quickly correct other problems that might arise, such as nipping, play biting, and jumping up. When the puppy cannot be supervised, confinement (discussed above) will be necessary. See our handout on housetraining for guidance in training your puppy to eliminate in the proper location.

What can be done for the particularly stubborn, disobedient, or headstrong puppy?Puppies that are particularly headstrong and stubborn might need some fairly stringent rules. Tug-of-war games should only be allowed if the owner initiates the game, and can successfully call an end to the game, with an ‘out’, or ‘give’ command when it is time to call it quits (See our handout on ‘Controlling stealing and teaching give’). Rough play must not escalate to uncontrollable play biting that cannot be controlled by the owner.

One of the best management tools for gaining safe and effective control at all times is a head collar. The puppy can be supervised and controlled from a distance by leaving a long line or leash attached to the head halter. The principle of halter training is to gain control over the dog with as much natural communication as possible and without the use of punishment. Positive reinforcement is used to encourage proper behavior. A pull on the leash is used to disrupt misbehavior. Since the halter is attached to the dog’s muzzle, common behavior problems (nipping, barking, jumping up, pulling, stealing food, etc.) can immediately be interrupted without fear or pain by pulling on the leash. The halter places pressure around the muzzle and behind the neck. This simulates the muzzle and neck restraint that a leader or mother dog might apply to a subordinate, and therefore is a highly effective and natural form of control (See our handout on 'Management devices in dog training').

What must I do to provide for my puppy’s needs?Chewing, play, exercise, exploration, feeding, social contact and elimination are basic requirements of all puppies. By providing appropriate outlets for each of these needs, few problems are likely to emerge. Puppies should be given chew toys that interest them and occupy their time. When supervised, the owner can allow the puppy to investigate and explore its new environment and can direct the puppy to the appropriate chew toys (and away from inappropriate areas). Play, exercise, affection, training, and handling must all be part of the daily routine. New tasks, new routines, new people and new forms of handling can be associated with rewards to ensure success. And, of course, the puppy will need to be provided with an acceptable area for elimination, and will need guidance until it learns to use this area.


This client information sheet is based on material written by Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, Diplomate ACVB
© Copyright 2005 Lifelearn Inc. Used with permission under license. April 27, 2012

Monday, April 23, 2012

Pets & Cookouts

Did you know that some of the most common foods we eat during our cookouts are the most dangerous foods for our pets? Meat with bones in it, such as chicken and ribs, are extremely dangerous for our pets to get a hold of and bones can puncture the stomach and other organs if swallowed because they cannot be digested. Corn-on-the-cob can also be dangerous because dogs have been known to swallow the cob whole! What do you do to keep your dog busy with something else during the barbeque?

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Pets & Easter Chocolate

Chocolate is delicious to most of us, but for your pet, it's a different story. Chocolate can contain high amounts of fat and methylxanthines (a caffeine-like ingredient), which can cause flu-like symptoms in your pet if eaten. Some of these symptoms could include vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, seizures and in severe cases it can be fatal. Avoid endangering the life of your pet...give them pet-safe treats instead!

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Flea Season

Spring is almost here and it is the season for fleas, so make sure your pet is protected today! Great Bridge Veterinary Hospital recommends Trifexis and Vectra3D for canine companions and Revolution for feline friends to protect them against these pesky parasites. Please ask us how your pet can be “flea free” this season at your next visit.
 

Friday, March 2, 2012

If 'Pets Had Thumbs Day'

Tomorrow is 'If Pets Had Thumbs Day'. Imagine if your pet could play board games with you or start the car. If your pet had thumbs, what activity would you be most excited to do with them?
 

Thursday, March 1, 2012

March is Poison Prevention Month

March is Poison Prevention Month! Did you know that some of the foods we eat every day can actually be toxic to our pets, such as avocado, macadamia nuts, and even grapes? We encourage you to invest in some delicious, pet-safe treats and avoid feeding any table scraps to your pet, in order to avoid accidental poisoning. Use precaution, and give your pet a long, healthy life.
 

Thursday, February 9, 2012

Way to Go Lindsey!

We are very proud of Lindsey, our Veterinary Assistant, who participated in the 2012 Polar Plunge last Saturday. She had a great time plunging. The 2012 Polar Plunge Winter Festival raised $1,119,000 for Special Olympics with 3,557 Polar Plungers! Way to go Lindsey!


 

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Valentine's Day

Thinking about spoiling your favorite furry one this Valentine's Day? You're not alone. The National Retail Federation expects consumers will spend $367 million on their pets for the holiday. What is the most extravagant gift you've given your pet on Valentine's Day?
 

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

2011 Most Popular Pet Names

Most popular feline names for females
1. Bella
2. Chloe
3. Lucy
4. Sophie
5. Lily
6. Molly
7. Gracie
8. Princess
9. Sasha
10. Cleo
Most popular feline names for males
1. Max
2. Oliver
3.Tiger
4. Charlie
5. Simba
6. Buddy
7. Smokey
8. Tigger
9. Jack
10. Sammy
Most popular canine names for females
1. Bella
2. Lucy
3. Molly
4. Daisy
5. Maggie
6. Sophie
7. Chloe
8. Sadie
9. Lola
10. Bailey
Most Popular canine names for males
1. Max
2. Buddy
3. Charlie
4. Rocky
5. Bailey
6. Jake
7. Cooper
8. Jack
9. Toby
10. Cody

Monday, January 2, 2012

Today is National Pet Travel Safety Day

Today is National Pet Travel Safety Day! We hope you and your pets experienced safe travels over the holidays. What steps do you take to ensure your pet is safe while traveling?